By: Elysia
I can’t believe it has taken me so long to sit down and write this. Believe me when I say I feel more than a little embarrassed that, over two months after the Edinburgh Festivals have finished, I’ve only just managed to put fingers to keyboard.
I suppose I could pretend it’s deliberate. I could say that, several weeks after the event(s), I wanted to return to those creativity-crammed few days to remind myself of the delights and the definitely-not-delights (yes, sadly this year there was one of those): but I can’t lie to you. I have to confess that in the midst of all the excitements and craziness of the last few months I have had little time to write. That would be sad, except for the fact that now I do have time; I have energy; and I have inspiration.
I ventured north to Edinburgh twice this August: firstly, on my own for less than forty-eight hours; and secondly with a group of rather fabulous individuals for a long weekend.
The first time was in mid-August, after all the festivals had started (some only days earlier) and were relatively fresh and new. The fliers which were enthusiastically jabbed in my direction walking down the Royal Mile weren’t at that point cluttered further by scraps of paper stapled to them, quoting reviews of the shows, like they were when I visited with my friends at the end of the month. It is part of the natural metamorphosis of the Edinburgh Festivals; as the days progress the fliers grow from pristine, untouched, to being adorned with typed reviews complete with their own personal miniature constellations.
Like the previous year I had gone with part purpose, and part intention to wander and absorb, seeing what was on offer at the last minute. I suppose, thinking about it, that’s quite representative of my personality: I like to plan things, yes, but really only so I can be organised enough to pack in as much as possible, snatching any spare moments and spontaneously cramming them with tiny adventures.
My purpose in mid-August was two-fold: Evelyn Evelyn, and Neil Gaiman. I arrived early morning, and promptly ditched my luggage at the hostel where I was planning to spend the night before heading out to grab a coffee, which I sipped slowly in Princes Street Gardens as Edinburgh started waking up properly. I sat there, on my leather jacket on the bench that had still been damp from the previous night’s dew, and drank slowly, watching the weak, early morning summer sun filter through the trees. People in suits and work clothes starting tripping past, in a rush, chatting on mobile phones or gulping down their takeaway drinks as they scanned the day’s headlines from the papers clutched in their hands. It was almost as if the world was speeding up around me, while I continued to sit there until long after my coffee had gone too cold to finish, just watching everything and everyone.
I spent most of the morning wandering around, soaking up the atmosphere of my favourite city once again, and drinking in coffee shops and scribbling away in my notebook. There have been many times a scrap of an idea has occurred to me in such circumstances which has later developed into a fully formed scheme or plan. I’m perhaps being overly romantic to say I owe most of my initial fragments of ideas to time spent holed up in eateries and drinkeries in Edinburgh, but it does sometimes seem that way.
Neil Gaiman
Eventually, after more caffeine than is possibly good for me, I ended up at Charlotte Square Gardens to hear Neil Gaiman be interviewed by Audrey Niffenegger. It was as good as I’d hoped for and more. Being eternally fascinated by mythology and folklore (themes which seem to permeate most of my writings, consciously or unconsciously), it thrilled me to discover that the first half of the talk centred upon fairytales. I could go on, I could go into detail about what was said: or I could direct you to this link where you can listen to the event itself. Ensure you do.
By late afternoon, after only having had an hour or two of sleep the night before, I decided to head back for a kitten nap before Evelyn Evelyn in the evening.
Evelyn Evelyn
I’m always a little bit apprehensive about going to watch artists I admire and whose work I enjoy, as there’s always that concern that I might be disappointed. The performance might not be up to scratch, there might be a distinct lack of artist engagement with the crowd, I might get that unsettling feeling that, somehow, something was wrong and it was all just a gaudy, hollow sham. This fear partly stems from the fact that I don’t understand the concept of celebrity. I like interesting people, people who are their own people, people who do things their own way. And so, being an admirer of several of the things that Amanda Palmer has done (or, at least as equally, the way in which she has done them), I was almost nervous about the evening’s billing.
I needn’t have worried: the show was everything I’d not quite dared to hope it would be. The atmosphere was fantastic, the camaraderie of the crowd in the queue outside was heart-warming, and the entertainment value was about as high as you could imagine. There was something so perfectly timed about the dark humour of the parapagus tripus dibrachius twins, that even when things appeared not to be going entirely to plan you were never quite sure whether the seamless reactionary skit that followed was deliberate or not. Watching them both (one arm each) play their instruments was a delight, especially the moment where a third arm sneaked out from their shared dress to hold the ukulele (a video of which I’d seen on YouTube, and which was even funnier live). All in all, I was left with a feeling of pure delight mingled with sheer relief. My one regret is that I missed Amanda Palmer’s and Jason Webley’s solo shows in the days that followed.
I would have stayed after the show to sneak a peek at the prototype for the Evelyn Evelyn graphic novel which, at that point in mid-August, had just been pulled together; but I was meeting a friend, so finished the night off with a drink or two in George Square Gardens and Udderbelly instead.
The next day I decided to go for a walk and explore parts of Edinburgh to which I hadn’t yet been, which resulted in me walking constantly for two hours and ultimately (but, fortunately, temporarily) getting delightfully lost. Afterwards I visited the Writers’ Museum in Lady Stair’s Close. The museum is a lovely little place, housing exhibitions about the lives of Walter Scott, Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson and, this time, my visit was made even more delightful by a chance encounter with a gentleman from Shetland (the second of two gentlemen from Shetland I randomly chatted to in Edinburgh in less than twenty-four hours).
I love Lady Stair’s Close, namely because it houses not only the Writers’ Museum but also the Makars’ Court with its carved paving slabs, engraved with the words of writers from days of yore and not so yore, including the delightful quote from Nan Shepherd, ‘It’s a grand thing to get leave to live’; and the sheer emotive magic of George Mackay Brown’s ‘In the fire of images gladly I put my hand’ (from the poem ‘Hamnavoe’, written about his father: go read it now).
Michael J Dolan’s Dress to Impress
As the afternoon started to roll towards evening I found myself in the White Horse, ready to partake in a little of Michael J Dolan’s ‘Dress to Depress’. I sometimes find that comics fail to strike a pleasing balance between doing an act which is effectively one long grumble (funny or not) and then actually appearing to be a rather grounded and engaging person. Michael J Dolan managed to get it just right. His tales of misery were amusing, even if some members of the audience of which I was part didn’t seem to find them so (I swear some people turn up to free Fringe shows just to try and be as thoroughly grumpy as they can, to put the comics off), and at one point I actually screeched with laughter at the end of a carefully crafted and well-delivered comment about eating babies. And then, at the end of the show, he was there with the bucket at the back, looking thoroughly grateful that people had turned up and laughed. All in all, I thought as I sat sipping a whisky in the bar at the station later that evening, a great way to finish off the first instalment of my Festival adventures.